The 23' L. Francis Herreshoff design was originally built in Quincy, Ma. in 1939. She arrived in my shop in the winter of 2004 as a bare hull with only a few deck beams holding her shape. She left my shop in the spring of 2007 after being significantly re-framed, re-floored, re-planked, re-decked, and re-fastened. She received a new cockpit and interior, and all surfaces were refinished. The following pictures illustrate a few of the details that added to the success in her rebuild.  The rudder was constructed using hand-picked Honduras mahogany. Note the hand carving which adds to the overall appearance of the construction giving a perception of high quality workmanship.
 Hinged companionway doors were built with solid lower panels and louvers above to provide ventilation. The construction allows for the individual louvers to be removable; this is a valuable detail and richly appreciated when the doors need to be sanded and varnished annually.  One of the companionway doors before the application of stain and several coats of spar varnish.  Below decks the style is established using hinged louvered locker doors of high gloss varnish, laminated honey locust counter tops, and a generous radius on all bulkheads trimmed with mahogany mouldings.  On a boat of this size, discreet storage of the 12 volt battery is a challenge; here it is stored under the counter top. The drop in top allows for easy access to the battery for maintenance and removal.  Ventilation is of paramount importance to all wooden boats. The 6 locker doors under the port and starboard bunks feature woven strips of honey locust. These serve the dual purpose of allowing air to pass through and provide a handsome look contrasting with the whiteness of the bunk riser. The looker doors are removable; the door hardware is homemade using a turn button at the top locking the door in place and two tabs on the inside bottom made up of brass flat stock allowing the doors to "hook" the moulding on the inside of the locker .  The rubrails serve a dual purpose: the deck canvas is held in place, and the rails save wear and tear on the topsides when easing in and out of a slip against a piling. The scarf joints are of a generous taper and fit & glued on the workbench prior to installation. This picture is facing aft with the scarf joint going in the correct direction. It was decided not to use bronze half-oval as it would detract from the beauty of this exotic hardwood.  The "Aucoot" is nearing completion. Note the cabin sides and cockpit coaming are one continuous piece of mahogany as are the carlins on the inside. The toerail adds security when walking about the decks as well as providing a stop for tools and hardware, etc. inadvertently dropped on deck.  Rot was discovered in the butt of the bowsprit. Rather than build a new one, the rotten end was cut out and a mooring bit was added to the foredeck providing a solid anchor for the bowsprit. The forehatch incorporates an attractive low profile bronze vent.  Boats of this vintage used exceptional cast bronze hardware as specified by the designer. Note the foredeck chocks port and starboard. Moulding of plain teak quarter round was installed around the bowsprit and mooring bit. A larger piece of teak was fashioned for that dubious area forward where the bowsprit intersects the bulwarks at a very acute angle - traditionally a collection area for dirt and grime that is very tough to keep clean.
 Above and below: Slings and required rigging for lifting and turning the boat over prior to repairs. Use great care in choosing and installing the hardware for this operation!  Note in photo below sufficient cushions under the boat; the boat will be raised and layed on edge on the cushions prior to being "tipped" over in the slings. The stem scarf is located just aft of the curve of the bow below the waterline. Yes, it falls directly under the mast step!  Photo below shows a typical reefed and damaged seam far too open to caulk. This seam will require splining. Note layers of bottom paint not quite stripped.  The splining process requires fitting the spline so it is tight on the inside and allows enough space for cotton caulking. Once satisfied with the fit, the spline is glued to the edge of the plank using a series of small wedges. Do not butt the joints of a spline; a tapered and glued scarf is preferable.  Some splitting of the cedar bottom planking was encountered. The splits were routed to a depth of roughly a third of the thickness of the plank, the engraver piece was subsequently fabricated, fit, and glued thus avoiding possible leakage through the split. Note the seam spline installed and cut flush.  .
Here is an ongoing project that, after further review, required more work than was originally estimated. Often, when a customer states that a boat is leaking, will ask how much will it cost to repair. My first reaction is, well, I won't really know the extent of the repair until I actually get into it. To assess a bottom's condition, the paint first needs to be removed; various fasteners will need to be removed to determine if they are a) holding the plank to the frame and, b) if the fastening has deteriorated. Sometimes a fastener will spin in its hole without backing out in which case the job becomes that much more time consuming. The framing on the inside of the boat will need close inspection; broken, split, or rotten frames will need replacement. The keel, stem, and scarves will need close scrutiny as well. Once the bottom has been stripped, any problems with the planking will become readily apparent. It is a good idea, given the relatively small area of the catboat's bottom, to remove the seam compound and caulking. Again, the amount of time to accomplish this will depend on a) the type of seam compound used, b) the amount of cotton in the seams and c) the tightness and integrity of the seam itself. I generally go at a project believing (hoping for) the best case scenario; why use the approach that everything on the boat needs replacement and scare the owner half to death? In my estimation, on original inspection, the boat would require some framing, recaulking, and refastening. And, to the owner I would say here is my best guess what that might cost - and let the chips fall where they may. In the case of this particular Beetlecat, the owner chose to proceed. The first challenge is to get the boat into the shop, lift the boat off the trailer, turn the boat over in the slings, and carefully set the boat upside down on blocking at a good working height. I first installed heavy eye hooks into the ceiling joists, assembled an assortment of slings, blocks and tackles, cushions, and cleats for tiedowns. Once the slings have been set up on the boat and all is ready to go, the boat will be lifted off the trailer and the trailer removed to a safe location. At this point, it was decided to rig casters on deck; one forward through the mast partners, and two aft just forward of the after deck. This allows the boat to be rolled to different locations in the shop as the floor is cement. To begin the rollover process, one side must be lowered onto the cushions and the other side lifted as high as possible. Once the boat is on edge (or close to it), it can be "tipped" over within the slings with the aid of a tagline. The raising and lowering is now reversed until the boat is level again and then set down on blocks at about stomach level thus making make caulking and refastening more convenient. The next thing is to remove the bottom paint either by heat gun or chemical paint remover. It is difficult to assess the thickness of the paint (loosely translated - how much time it will take) until the job has commenced. I then proceeded to reef the seams. One never knows what one will find; in this case, the dreaded rubber seam compound (3M 5200 or Boatlife). Rather than a reefing iron, the compound will need to be cut away with a sheet rock knife or similar; loosely translated - much more time than originally estimated. Once the cotton has been exposed, it too will need to be reefed out. I believe this Beetlecat was originally assembled with cotton wicking between the seams; ie, no chamfer cut into the edge of the plank for cotton caulking. This allowed for a quicker build by eliminating hand caulking. At some point in this catboat's life, the bottom was recaulked to an open seam. This was accomplished using massive amounts of cotton and rubber for a seam compound over the cotton. Again, all of this needed to be removed, including the original wicking leaving an open seam - on an average 1/4" open! This cannot be caulked without splining each seam. Splines are long, tapered strips glued to the plank edge. Again, this process was not accounted for in the original estimate because the seam gap did not become apparent until all caulking materials were removed. Before the actual caulking process begins, the planking must be firmly and solidly fastened to the framing. Similarly, the plank ends must be solidly on the stem and transom, and the garboard to the keel rabbet. This catboat had the majority of the bottom refastened with bronze screws most of which were in good shape though many required a deeper countersink. I suspect the original fasteners were ferrous screws or nails. Keep in mind that the framing accepting these screws must be solid; frame repairs must be finished before the boat is refastened. A Beetlecat is about 12' long with a foredeck, sidedecks, and aftdeck. The mast step, stem scarf, and forward section of the keel are located under the foredeck. It requires a thin man to wiggle under the deck to gain access to the mast step, forward frames and keel, and stem scarf. A very thin man. To adequately access these areas for reframing or rebolting, the deck (and deck coaming) will need to be removed. This scenario is probably the last thing the owner wants to hear at this point given the aforementioned trials and tribulations. But, you can see where this is going so I will say no more. Now that the frame repairs are finished, the planking refastened and bunged as required, and any engraver pieces fitted and glued into planking imperfections are completed, the bottom may be sanded and caulked. It requires great care to caulk a bottom of thinly planked cedar; do not push the cotton through the seam by caulking too firmly; set the cotton deep enough to allow for underwater seam compound, and do not damage the plank edge by not having a wide enough seam. Sometimes a seam will accept a half strand of cotton, other times a full strand, and rarely two strands. The cotton is first rolled into a ball (literally roll the strand between both your hands compressing it before making the ball) of perhaps 5" in diameter, place the ball into a small cardboard box, and then install the cotton strand with a proper caulking iron and some sort of comfortable mallet of suitable size for the job. I have watched numerous caulkers but the best way to learn is through trial and error; there is no substitute for experience. If possible, break off the job at convenient intervals and go on to something else. Caulking can be mind numbing! I prefer the red underwater seam compound that is thinned with mineral spirits to a yogurt like consistency and applied from a wood palette. It goes on quickly, penetrates completely and, with the right putty knife, cleans off flush with the plank making for a very neat and tidy job. There you go! No problem, right? Just don't tell the owner how easy it was.
Having not contributed a post in sometime, I feel compelled to continue sharing my boating experiences of late. Autumn is a very busy season for boat owners particularly for the sailor. The winds are brisk and skies are clear as the northerly winds fill in more frequently making for ideal fall sailing. However, arrangements will eventually need to be made for winter storage as well as plans for decommissioning the boat. Surplus gear, spars, sails, batteries, charts, removable electronics, cushions, food and drinks, etc. should be stored in a safe, dry area under lock and key. If the boat is to be hauled, the engine should be winterized before the boat comes out of the water eliminating the need for a fresh water source, hoses and fittings. The boat must be stored level when hauled so water cannot collect and pool on deck and in the bilge. If stored outside, a framed cover will need to be erected. Yes, many rationales can be made for overlooking this critical detail. However, the boat will indeed suffer if exposed to the winter elements of frost, ice, snow and fluctuating temperatures. Leaks will develop under fittings where moisture is trapped and frozen. Constant changes in temperature coupled with heavy dews and frosts challenges even the tightest of joints resulting in sheets of brightwork being thrown. Without a cover, below decks will require an inordinate amount of heat to make working conditions tolerable. Be sure the cover allows for air circulation with venting throughout; otherwise, mildew is likely to occur below decks. The boat will generally stay much cleaner when properly covered. And when springtime finally arrives, much less work will be required to bring her back in shape. Alternatively, the boat owner may choose to move the boat south. The advantage here is that the boat will be continually used throughout the year giving the yachtsman the opportunity to explore different cruising grounds. Here on the east coast, many choose south Florida as their winter destination. Recently, I took part in a yacht delivery from New York to Ft. Lauderdale. We took the outside route and made just one stop in Norfolk to wait out a bad forecast for Cape Hatteras. The trip to Norfolk took roughly 38 hours from Sandy Hook NJ in ideal conditions of 25-35 knots of wind out of the northwest. From Norfolk to Ft. Lauderdale the trip took a total of 5 days as we experienced 20-30 knots of wind out of the northeast which carried us t0 the FL border and then southwest winds in the 15-20 knot range down the Florida coastline. A trip of this nature is rigorous and should only be attempted by an experienced crew in a well found boat. It is a commitment in time and the risks involved should not be taken lightly. Many prefer a leisurely trip down the Intercoastal Waterway. That is fine provided the masthead is less than 65' from the waterline - you will need to allow at least 3 weeks and a good deal of fuel as sailing is out of the question for the majority of the ICW. It is a good idea to make berthing arrangements before arriving as the docks in south Florida tend to fill up quickly late in the year. Once the boat has been moored, the owner can now make plans to exploit some great cruising opportunities in the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, and Mexico. Be sure to bring your mask and flippers as these aqua colored waters are teaming with wildlife and must be seen to be believed.
Often the search is far and wide, similar to an online dating service, for a new boat. After all, the boat must meet all the predetermined requisites as set forth by the owner-to-be. Every hiding place for fine boats and, as it sometimes turns out, derelict boats will be sought. On land and by sea, and often through the air, the buyer will not quit until that buying urge has been satisfied. And along the way, oh wise one will have learned that nothing is ever as it seems, and that is so ever true with boats. Recently, my search led me to an online site often used by brokerage houses. As with dating services, the personality, specifications, and featured benefits, must be condensed into a finite number of words which never seem to satisfy the reader's curiosity. The listing contains whatever is required to pique the buyer's interest. The listing only scratches the surface of what you actually might be getting yourself into. Usually, brokers will submit a positive personal opinion in the description - be sure to separate fact from opinion. If the boat described generates any interest at all, prepare specific questions for the broker based on the listing. To uncover the truth about the condition of the boat, an inspection must first be arranged. It is preferable to view the boat out of water; however, during the nice weather, the boats are being used by their present owners and features below the waterline will have to be inspected during the haul out. Whether boarding the boat from a dock or from a ladder, take a stroll down the side decks; look around on the foredeck; sit at the wheel. The boat must feel right for handling lines, long hours at the wheel, anchoring, and moving fore and aft on the boat. How about the accommodation? Is there sufficient headroom? Will the layout work for captain and mate? Is the motor(s) accessible for routine maintenance? Is there enough storage space and tankage to suit your cruising needs? These questions are subjective and can only be answered by the skipper and crew. Questions pertaining to the condition of the yacht are normally determined by a qualified surveyor or journeyman boatbuilder. Boarding a yacht in obvious disrepair is risky from a liability standpoint as damages might be incurred during the inspection and the potential client could be put in harms way by merely boarding the boat. These "death row" boats are best left for the do-it-yourselfer with marine experience in structural and mechanical repair. Once the initial inspection has been completed, more research must be undertaken by the buyer. Find the manufacturer's website; study the builder's original specifications; look for an owner's group website for the particular brand as owners will often post problems experienced with a particular model. Plan on doing the research on the high ticket items - the motor, electronics, generator, and so on. Many buyers rely on the broker for information; this is a mistake. It is up to the buyer to do the research so there can be no mistake interpreting the information. The broker will assist in coordinating the showing, seatrial, and survey, providing a Purchase and Sale Contract, holding monies (deposits) in escrow, registering and documenting the vessel and, most importantly, providing the communications link between buyer and seller. For the buyer this means that the bulk of the work; ie, knowing and understanding the boat in question, will be up to the purchaser. In most cases, the broker will submit offers to the buyer. Depending on the broker/seller relationship, the broker may not submit a low ball offer to the owner; this can sometimes become a sticking point. Yet, an offensively low offer may not be worth the trouble for the buyer. Better results may be achieved by submitting what the broker defines as a reasonable offer. Later in the buying process the seller will often submit a new, lower offer based on the results of the pre-purchase survey. All sales are driven by this mutually agreed upon number. Nevertheless, the buyer never knows for sure what motivates the seller. Depending on the personal circumstances of the seller and how long a boat has been on the market, all "reasonable offers" can be very difficult to determine. Once an offer is presented to the owner, a counteroffer by the seller might be a clue as to how low they might be willing to go. A middle ground can usually be found by both parties compromising and lowering their respective expectations. At the point when both parties agree to the purchase price, and any and all contingencies, the survey and seatrial are scheduled. Very few boats will come away with a spotless pre-purchase survey. If the recommendations exceeds a tolerable number of repairs, the purchaser is likely to walk away with the deposit. If not, an estimate of the cost of the repairs per the surveyor's recommendations will be sought out and the purchase price will no doubt be re-negotiated. The object of the exercise is to get to the truth about a particular boat. Every boatowner will treat a boat differently and the results of this attention or lack thereof influences the purchase price of a boat. A potential buyer will sense immediately how well a boat has been cared for. A broker's listing usually won't give a clue as to what problems a boat might have. A lengthy inspection by the purchaser and a thoroughly technical pre-purchase survey and seatrial, will determine if the boat is worth pursuing.
I have been involved in various boat deals of late; for many owners, now is evidently a good time to sell. When shopping for classics, there is no shortage of boats available. In fact, I dare say most any boat is available - for the right price! Which brings me to the value of a survey. While employed for various brokerage houses and dealerships, we as sales personnel urged our buyers to have any used boat surveyed prior to purchase. Likewise, before accepting a boat in trade, the "house" would have a mechanical and conditon survey performed on the trade. There are different types of surveys available. For the buyer, it is essential to have a pre-purchase or condition survey done on the boat prior to purchase. This type of survey is not to be confused with an appraisal or valuation survey. These are performed for the owner of the yacht generally for insurance purposes but often to get a handle on the yachts' value. A thorough pre-purchase survey will find the boat commissioned and in the water and the surveyor will accompany the buyer for the seatrial. The surveyor will also inspect the vessel out of the water. This survey takes much longer to perform than an appraisal survey and will also cost more. Often the seller will make an older survey available to the potential buyer. Careful for what you wish for! Usually, it is an appraisal survey which the owner had carried out to obtain hull insurance. And, indeed, it was performed in the past - often years in the past. These types of surveys are great for the owner because they are very kind to the boats' condition: they don't go into too much detail other than the boat's specifications. It also gives the owner a market value and a replacement value. In this day and age - ouch! But brokers love these figures as they usually translate to hyper-inflated asking prices. For the pursuer of a classic yacht, the buyer must beware of intrinsic structural problems. Will a pre-purchase survey make the buyer aware of potential problems? Not always. In wooden boats particularly, problems such as leaks, rot, and loose structures will often be hidden behind built in joinery or the inner ceiling. Corroded or de-zincified bottom fasteners will not be discovered unless several fasteners are removed in an appropriate pattern. In a recent survey I was privy to, I noticed the statement "all observed keel bolts appeared sound". Interesting since no destructive disassembly took place as the survey reminds the reader throughout. It is therefore safe to assume that nary a keelbolt was removed - thus, the nut, washer and whatever amount of thread being exposed is, well, sound! This is useless information to anyone trying to assess what he or she is about to buy. Anyone buying a classic yacht, in particular a wooden classic yacht, will require either the skills or the resources or both to carry on with the yacht's legacy. In a previous blog entry, I touched on full disclosure by the seller. It is up to the buyer to dig for the truth. Most sellers are not willing to admit, for whatever reasons, that their boat may have a problem or two. And here's where we get into semantics. What exactly is reconditioned, rebuilt, restored. Often these words are contained in the listing. It is up to the buyer to figure out what it means exactly. A carefully worded listing will naturally steer the reader in a positive direction by creating excitement and sometimes even urgency for the buyer. A worthwhile surveyor working for the buyer, will naturally look in a negative direction and hopefully turn up any and all defects in the yacht. For the collector of vintage wooden boats, it is not uncommon to have pieces of the interior removed for the survey particularly in the chainplate region; the owner will of course have nothing to hide and will grant permission providing the yacht is returned to its original condition. The same holds true for bottom fasteners and deck screws providing the fastening and bung is replaced. It is the buyer's responsibility to contract a boatyard in advance for the hauling during survey and to perform any structural removal for inspection purposes. All too often the dream gets in the way of reality for the classic yacht owner. The best foundation for the successful stewardship of a classic is knowing in advance what you are getting into. I have used the analogy that buying a boat is similar to joining a club. The purchase price is merely an initiation fee. The yearly dues are relentless - they keep coming and coming in the form of invoices for storage, maintenance, upgrades, and repairs. This is the costly part of the ownership. When buying the boat, find out all the information available about the boat's condition in order to make a sound decision.
Over the past month I have been boating in one form or another in New York, Maine, Connecticut, and California. While I enjoy having the waters to myself, an alarming fact became apparent that very few boatowners are actually using their boats. Perhaps it is early in the season but late spring offers exceptional boating conditions. Brisk evenings and warm afternoons, with the usual prevailing breezes makes for memorable cruises. However, I suspect part of the reason for boats not being used is their owners have cut back significantly on their boating budgets. Yes, for many owners, the boat is the last item on the agenda to receive a portion of the paycheck. As a result, not only do the boats suffer, but their owner's are usually relegated to some inane " honeydo" list on the homefront. Such a pity! Perhaps it is time to hire the professional to carry on with the outstanding project list that keeps the boat on its boatstands in some hot, dusty boatyard. Obviously, the easy choice is to commission the boatyard by making the inevitable phone call. No problem, right? Not so fast. Can you be sure you are getting skilled and experienced labor? How soon will they get to the job? And what is the labor rate - do you even know? There is the alternative in contracting your own workforce from outside the boatyard or marina. Often these mechanics, carpenters, painters, and canvas professionals are found from fellow boaters who recommend their services. Most advertise in the boating magazines or list their services via the internet or trade publications. Your efforts will be well spent in finding a marine tradesperson: make the call and ask the right questions. Invite them down to see the project. Ask them about their professional experience: how long have they worked in the business; how much do they charge; what are their billing practices; will they provide references; do they carry enough insurance allowing them to work in a "closed" yard; when can they start; about how long will the job take; do they look organized and fastidious. From this initial meeting, the owner will get a sense if this professional will work out or not. Oftentimes, this route will save the owner a ton of money simply because an independent contractors' overhead is not even close to that of a boatyard. And, in a boatyard, one never knows who will be assigned to a particular job. You may in fact be paying top dollar for someones apprenticeship program! While the yard manager may seem very pleasant and persuasive, he is probably not going to be doing the actual job. On the other hand, the independent contractor knows that his or her professional reputation is at stake for each and every job they take on. They live by referrals and one bad one can make future work very much in doubt. It is very difficult to pin a marine contractor down to a set price. If the customer pushes in that direction it is usually out of naivety. Engine and mechanical work aside, most jobs on a boat are very difficult to estimate simply because no two boats are alike. Most contractors prefer a simple estimate based on time and materials. Contract prices are based on an inflated estimate of time and materials. Obviously, everything is negotiable and the boatowner is the one writing the check. The contractor reserves the right to walk away from the job simply because he is in business to make money. And some jobs just don't pay. When the bill is submitted, the contractor expects payment on receipt - in full! Every contractor has their own ground rules: if my customer has an outstanding account past due, I will stop work when the account has reached a predetermined figure. I prefer a downpayment of good faith money before I begin a job and then bill every two weeks. For the customer to receive timely service in the future, it behooves that person to pay attention to the invoices. Respect your contractor as they have very good memories! In return, the contractor will give his or her very best effort, keep a clean and organized job site, and respect your boat as if it were their own home and their own lives depended on it.
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Hinged companionway doors were built with solid lower panels and louvers above to provide ventilation. The construction allows for the individual louvers to be removable; this is a valuable detail and richly appreciated when the doors need to be sanded and varnished annually.
One of the companionway doors before the application of stain and several coats of spar varnish.
Below decks the style is established using hinged louvered locker doors of high gloss varnish, laminated honey locust counter tops, and a generous radius on all bulkheads trimmed with mahogany mouldings.
On a boat of this size, discreet storage of the 12 volt battery is a challenge; here it is stored under the counter top. The drop in top allows for easy access to the battery for maintenance and removal.
The rubrails serve a dual purpose: the deck canvas is held in place, and the rails save wear and tear on the topsides when easing in and out of a slip against a piling. The scarf joints are of a generous taper and fit & glued on the workbench prior to installation. This picture is facing aft with the scarf joint going in the correct direction. It was decided not to use bronze half-oval as it would detract from the beauty of this exotic hardwood.
The "Aucoot" is nearing completion. Note the cabin sides and cockpit coaming are one continuous piece of mahogany as are the carlins on the inside. The toerail adds security when walking about the decks as well as providing a stop for tools and hardware, etc. inadvertently dropped on deck.
Rot was discovered in the butt of the bowsprit. Rather than build a new one, the rotten end was cut out and a mooring bit was added to the foredeck providing a solid anchor for the bowsprit. The forehatch incorporates an attractive low profile bronze vent.
