I am told that the second happiest day in a boater's life is the day the boat is sold. It may very well be the happiest day; "buyer's remorse" should be taken into account when the boat is purchased! Using the logic that nobody needs a boat, great care and a colossal amount of effort must be taken when selling a boat. For sailboat owners, it is particularly true when one considers the fact that only 1 in 7 boats sold are sailboats.
There are many strategies available to the seller: the important thing to note is the more exposure the boat has to the buying public, the greater the chance of selling at or near asking price. Develop a marketing strategy and execute. If using a yacht broker, fully understand their marketing strategy and fees. Be sure the boat is accessible and ready to be shown. Print out flyers with plenty of pictures and a well written advertisement containing "features and benefits" of the boat. These can be used for postings at community bulletin boards, yacht clubs, and left aboard as handouts.
Have a look through the advertisements in the various "Boats for Sale" websites. Are the pictures worthwhile? Does the write up create excitement? Do you get a sense of urgency to buy the boat? It is doubtful. Often the pictures are an afterthought or taken at the last minute. Why in the world would anyone advertise pictures of a boat under shrink wrap? How can anyone get a feel for the deck layout, the cockpit arrangement, or the anchoring setup when the photographer has to crawl around under a shrink wrap cover? I understand many boats come on the market during the off season; there is no legitimate reason to wait until the boat is laid up and under cover to photograph the boat.
Photos will create interest in the boat; a showing might very well sell the boat. Any buyer worth their salt will want to give a very close inspection of the boat. The prospective client will want to look in lockers, under floor boards, snoop around the engine compartment, and anywhere else access can be gained - as it should be. It makes sense that the boat be in spotless condition for the showing with a total absense of extraneous gear, the sellers' person items, and anything else not included in the sale including food, magazines, clothing, bedding, half used cleaning products, dirty rags, and so on. Yes, this is the seller's responsibility to make the boat clutter free and clean for the showing - not the broker's! Selling a boat is difficult enough: work the details in your favor. When showing the boat, open it up and air it out beforehand. The object here is to make the buyer fall in love and often love is at first sight.
If you are aware of problems with the condition of the boat, it is best to fully disclose the problems prior to survey. The buyer will be greatful for your honesty and it will help in building a trusting relationship between buyer and seller. Every boat has its share of problems - leaks, cosmetics, vibrations, and so on - some worse than others. As a seller, it is best to correct any known major problems before putting the boat on the market otherwise it could become a sticking point in future negotiations. If the seller is unwilling to make the repairs, it should be pointed out to the buyer that this has been reflected in the asking price.
If all goes well with the showing, follow up with the buyer. Perhaps an offer was made. Now what? If the offer is accepted, a purchase agreement will be drawn up either by the broker or the seller. Along with a signed agreement, a deposit to hold the boat is put into escrow and typically a survey and sea trial will follow before closing the deal. Once the survey is reviewed by the buyer, the original offer may be retracted based on recommendations in the survey. If the problems aren't too serious, a counter offer will be made and it will be up to the seller to decide if the number is acceptable. If preparations were made to sell the boat with obsessive detail, the day the deal is closed will perhaps be the happiest day in the life of a former boatowner.
Friday, April 30, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Wanna Buy a Boat?
It is possible that many reading this post are "between boats". Finding the right boat is often a time consuming process involving many fruitless inspections. I encourage buyers to be realistic in determining the purpose of their new purchase. Will the boat be used as a year-round live-aboard? Should it be capable of long range cruising? How much room is actually required? Will the boat be tied up at the dock 80% of the time and then hauled out during the off season?
It is amazing to me to see all the boats tied at the dock during the beautiful weather. It is sad to witness the empty pilothouses, the stained topsides, the algae coated fenders, and the perverbial shore cord. What a waste! Millions of dollars of equipment sitting idle, patiently waiting for its next mission. If only the owners had been realistic in assessing their needs before they went to the boat show.
It has been said that nobody needs a boat. With the advent of production building during the late 1950's and early 60's, boating became affordable to more than just the very rich. During the heyday of the 70's and 80's ownership grew tremendously and buying a boat could simply be put on a payment plan. At boatshows, eager salesmen hawking their wares aboard a landlocked chrome-plater seemed to provide some sort of answer to a yearning or inner need. And before you could say hard-a-lee, a purchase agreement was signed and immediately our egos were overcome with self gratification. No doubt, buying a boat is purely an emotional decision. But buying a boat to suit your needs can be planned and well thought out.
There are some important points to be aware of in the buying or selling process. Obviously, there is no such thing as a perfect boat. But it is fun to imagine one. We have all spent countless hours wandering up and down waterfronts dreaming what someday might be. And during those times we have imagined what that perfect boat might be. However, that boat is usually far more money than we are willing to spend. Now the compromises begin.
Set in your mind a price point and stick to it. Scour the listings to see what is available. Look for value. No boat is forever. There will no doubt be a time when you and yours part ways. One thing I have witnessed over and over: a new or left over model boat is purchased during a boatshow with a small downpayment with the remainder financed; and, for one reason or another, a year or two later, the boat needs to be sold. Because the boat is financed, , the payoff on the boat is far more than what it will fetch on the used boat market. If only the owner had been more realistic and less emotional in the buying process.
Many prefer involving a broker in the buying or selling of a boat. The broker will assist in the paperwork, as well as in the negotiation process between buyer and seller. They will coordinate seatrials, surveys, bank financing, and closing the deal. They will also be able to assist in registering and documenting the vessel. Their job is to build relationships. This is how they acquire customers which often leads to referrals. These people are generally outgoing, hard working, and honest boaters. I have worked with many brokers and I can't remember a bad penny among them. Beware of the people they work for, however!
It should not be a problem to work on your own in the buying process. There are many owners who choose to list their boats on their own. No matter how sweet the deal looks, I strongly advise having the boat surveyed. If making an offer on a boat, it should be contingent on the survey, and if financed, obtaining financing. Be sure to have the seller initial the listing when signing the purchase agreement as this will state what equipment is included in the sale.
If possible, obtain a blank purchase agreement from a broker and study it. This contract will contain important points that should not be overlooked. The purchase agreement will include but not limited to: the name and address of buyer and seller; the particulars of the vessel; the purchase price; the deposit - typically 10% of purchase price; list of contigencies - typically survey, seatrial, mechanical evaluation (all at the expense of the buyer). Generally, the contract stipulates that the buyer will give written acceptance or rejection of the vessel within 5 days of the survey and seatrial. If accepted, a closing date is chosen usually 30 days after acceptance. The deal also is contigent on the buyer receiving adequate financing. The contract will stiipulate other details; for example, that the vessel is free of encumbrances or liens; where the vessel will be located at closing; the funds are to be cash or certified bank funds; that there are no warranties to the boat either expressed or implied. These are the highlights of any purchase agreement and must be understood by both buyer and seller if a smooth transaction is to take place.
Certainly there is room for negotiation once the contract has been signed if the survey or seatrial don't meet the buyer's expectations. I have seen deals fall through at this stage many times. The deposit is returned to the buyer, and everyone goes their own separate ways. Full disclosure by the seller will save everyone a lot of time. Sooner or later, a boats' problems will come to light. For the potential buyer, a thorough survey is an invaluable tool at the negotiating table as well as the peace of mind it gives for the new boat owner.
If you are considering selling a boat, please consider reading my post in the coming days.
It is amazing to me to see all the boats tied at the dock during the beautiful weather. It is sad to witness the empty pilothouses, the stained topsides, the algae coated fenders, and the perverbial shore cord. What a waste! Millions of dollars of equipment sitting idle, patiently waiting for its next mission. If only the owners had been realistic in assessing their needs before they went to the boat show.
It has been said that nobody needs a boat. With the advent of production building during the late 1950's and early 60's, boating became affordable to more than just the very rich. During the heyday of the 70's and 80's ownership grew tremendously and buying a boat could simply be put on a payment plan. At boatshows, eager salesmen hawking their wares aboard a landlocked chrome-plater seemed to provide some sort of answer to a yearning or inner need. And before you could say hard-a-lee, a purchase agreement was signed and immediately our egos were overcome with self gratification. No doubt, buying a boat is purely an emotional decision. But buying a boat to suit your needs can be planned and well thought out.
There are some important points to be aware of in the buying or selling process. Obviously, there is no such thing as a perfect boat. But it is fun to imagine one. We have all spent countless hours wandering up and down waterfronts dreaming what someday might be. And during those times we have imagined what that perfect boat might be. However, that boat is usually far more money than we are willing to spend. Now the compromises begin.
Set in your mind a price point and stick to it. Scour the listings to see what is available. Look for value. No boat is forever. There will no doubt be a time when you and yours part ways. One thing I have witnessed over and over: a new or left over model boat is purchased during a boatshow with a small downpayment with the remainder financed; and, for one reason or another, a year or two later, the boat needs to be sold. Because the boat is financed, , the payoff on the boat is far more than what it will fetch on the used boat market. If only the owner had been more realistic and less emotional in the buying process.
Many prefer involving a broker in the buying or selling of a boat. The broker will assist in the paperwork, as well as in the negotiation process between buyer and seller. They will coordinate seatrials, surveys, bank financing, and closing the deal. They will also be able to assist in registering and documenting the vessel. Their job is to build relationships. This is how they acquire customers which often leads to referrals. These people are generally outgoing, hard working, and honest boaters. I have worked with many brokers and I can't remember a bad penny among them. Beware of the people they work for, however!
It should not be a problem to work on your own in the buying process. There are many owners who choose to list their boats on their own. No matter how sweet the deal looks, I strongly advise having the boat surveyed. If making an offer on a boat, it should be contingent on the survey, and if financed, obtaining financing. Be sure to have the seller initial the listing when signing the purchase agreement as this will state what equipment is included in the sale.
If possible, obtain a blank purchase agreement from a broker and study it. This contract will contain important points that should not be overlooked. The purchase agreement will include but not limited to: the name and address of buyer and seller; the particulars of the vessel; the purchase price; the deposit - typically 10% of purchase price; list of contigencies - typically survey, seatrial, mechanical evaluation (all at the expense of the buyer). Generally, the contract stipulates that the buyer will give written acceptance or rejection of the vessel within 5 days of the survey and seatrial. If accepted, a closing date is chosen usually 30 days after acceptance. The deal also is contigent on the buyer receiving adequate financing. The contract will stiipulate other details; for example, that the vessel is free of encumbrances or liens; where the vessel will be located at closing; the funds are to be cash or certified bank funds; that there are no warranties to the boat either expressed or implied. These are the highlights of any purchase agreement and must be understood by both buyer and seller if a smooth transaction is to take place.
Certainly there is room for negotiation once the contract has been signed if the survey or seatrial don't meet the buyer's expectations. I have seen deals fall through at this stage many times. The deposit is returned to the buyer, and everyone goes their own separate ways. Full disclosure by the seller will save everyone a lot of time. Sooner or later, a boats' problems will come to light. For the potential buyer, a thorough survey is an invaluable tool at the negotiating table as well as the peace of mind it gives for the new boat owner.
If you are considering selling a boat, please consider reading my post in the coming days.
Monday, April 26, 2010
In Consideration of Trim, Finish Work, and Inexpensive Paint
Once the project has been designed, the pattern made, the wood cut and faired, the pieces fit and glued, what was once a vision is now a reality. The fact is, once started - the hard part is over. A progression of processes has taken place - a momentum has begun - and the next thing you know you are admiring your work!
It may be possible at this juncture to finish the piece with paint or varnish before installing. Finish work is far easier to accomplish while the piece is still in the shop. If the bare work is installed on the boat before sanding, filling, priming, painting or varnishing, you will be making many more trips up the ladder usually working in an awkward position without good lighting, and, in the winter, farther from the heating source. However, be absolutely sure that the piece fits where it is to be installed. Any slight adjustment to the piece must be done before painting or varnishing.
I generally give my work a "builder's" finish. Painting is a trade unto itself; a journeyman brush or spray painter has honed his or her skills for many, many years. I enjoy watching them prep a surface and am constantly amazed at the high level of finish they are able to achieve. They can make the topsides of a 50 year old carvel planked boat look like a bottle!
Generally, I give work below decks a coat of primer and two coats of finish; if varnished, a coat of filler stain and 3 or 4 coats of varnish. Above decks, a coat of primer and 3 or 4 coats will suffice. Varnish work demands a build up of coats to eliminate a grainy appearance and to get a glass like finish. On mahogany I first use a filler stain (it fills the grain) wiped down until the grain of the wood is clearly visible. Once the stain has dried, I start building coats of thinned spar varnish "wet on wet" usually two coats per day until I have 4 coats. I then level it with 150 grit and use full strength varnish for the next coat; for subsequent coats I go with 220 grit with the goal of a total of 7 coats.
For finish coats, I prefer using about 2 caps of mineral spirits per pint along with a cap or two of Penetrol or boiled linseed to eliminate drag in the brush. These proportions holds true for oil based paints and spar varnish. I am not a big fan of paying top dollar for product from the national marine chain stores. In fact, I look for my paint products in my local hardware store; this is the local guy who is competing against the national hardware chain outlet. My guy stocks Man-O-War spar varnish so I buy it. He stocks quarts of Rustoleum oil-based Flat white and Gloss white so I buy it. He also supplies my Kilz original primer by the gallon, various thinners, sandpaper, scraper blades and files, Formula 27 putty, mahogany surfacing putty, and China bristle paint brushes. I supply my own rags (worn out undies and shirts) and my own paint pots (yogurt containers). There are times I have to break down and order Pettit, Interlux or some other fancy paint. It practically kills me. Unfortunately, these guys seem to have a corner on the market when it comes to Bristol beige, Sandtone, Hatteras off-white, mahogany filler stain brown or red, natural boatyard bedding compound, and seam compound underwater and above the waterline.
All horizontal seams and any exposed end-grain will be sealed and hidden by trim. Consideration of trim should be done in the design phase although now is a good time to design the actual dimensions. Common sense is the rule-of-thumb: again, if it looks right it probably is. Cut a section of the proposed trim out of cardboard or thin plywood. Hold it up to the piece it will join into or sit atop of. Does it serve its designed purpose? Is it large enough or is it gaudy? Will it flow into its neighboring piece without causing notice? How difficult will this trim piece be able to turn out with the available tooling and stock? Will it be easy to refinish when the time comes? Can I get a decent fastening down through the top or side? Will the head be bunged with a wooden plug or puttied? As with any new piece of work on a boat, it is best to pre-finish the trim before installation. If the trim is bunged, the final coat will need to be applied after installation. For exterior trim it is best to use a non-hardening bedding compound on installation. All too often, glue or some sort of moisture cured rubber is used for bedding which makes for not only a long clean-up process but an impossible job of removing the trim for refinishing.
Finally, when brightwork is adjacent to paintwork, I suggest doing all the varnish first and cut the paint work into the varnish as it's easier to wipe paint from varnish than vice versa. I have other thoughts on the matter, but this is enough for now.
It may be possible at this juncture to finish the piece with paint or varnish before installing. Finish work is far easier to accomplish while the piece is still in the shop. If the bare work is installed on the boat before sanding, filling, priming, painting or varnishing, you will be making many more trips up the ladder usually working in an awkward position without good lighting, and, in the winter, farther from the heating source. However, be absolutely sure that the piece fits where it is to be installed. Any slight adjustment to the piece must be done before painting or varnishing.
I generally give my work a "builder's" finish. Painting is a trade unto itself; a journeyman brush or spray painter has honed his or her skills for many, many years. I enjoy watching them prep a surface and am constantly amazed at the high level of finish they are able to achieve. They can make the topsides of a 50 year old carvel planked boat look like a bottle!
Generally, I give work below decks a coat of primer and two coats of finish; if varnished, a coat of filler stain and 3 or 4 coats of varnish. Above decks, a coat of primer and 3 or 4 coats will suffice. Varnish work demands a build up of coats to eliminate a grainy appearance and to get a glass like finish. On mahogany I first use a filler stain (it fills the grain) wiped down until the grain of the wood is clearly visible. Once the stain has dried, I start building coats of thinned spar varnish "wet on wet" usually two coats per day until I have 4 coats. I then level it with 150 grit and use full strength varnish for the next coat; for subsequent coats I go with 220 grit with the goal of a total of 7 coats.
For finish coats, I prefer using about 2 caps of mineral spirits per pint along with a cap or two of Penetrol or boiled linseed to eliminate drag in the brush. These proportions holds true for oil based paints and spar varnish. I am not a big fan of paying top dollar for product from the national marine chain stores. In fact, I look for my paint products in my local hardware store; this is the local guy who is competing against the national hardware chain outlet. My guy stocks Man-O-War spar varnish so I buy it. He stocks quarts of Rustoleum oil-based Flat white and Gloss white so I buy it. He also supplies my Kilz original primer by the gallon, various thinners, sandpaper, scraper blades and files, Formula 27 putty, mahogany surfacing putty, and China bristle paint brushes. I supply my own rags (worn out undies and shirts) and my own paint pots (yogurt containers). There are times I have to break down and order Pettit, Interlux or some other fancy paint. It practically kills me. Unfortunately, these guys seem to have a corner on the market when it comes to Bristol beige, Sandtone, Hatteras off-white, mahogany filler stain brown or red, natural boatyard bedding compound, and seam compound underwater and above the waterline.
All horizontal seams and any exposed end-grain will be sealed and hidden by trim. Consideration of trim should be done in the design phase although now is a good time to design the actual dimensions. Common sense is the rule-of-thumb: again, if it looks right it probably is. Cut a section of the proposed trim out of cardboard or thin plywood. Hold it up to the piece it will join into or sit atop of. Does it serve its designed purpose? Is it large enough or is it gaudy? Will it flow into its neighboring piece without causing notice? How difficult will this trim piece be able to turn out with the available tooling and stock? Will it be easy to refinish when the time comes? Can I get a decent fastening down through the top or side? Will the head be bunged with a wooden plug or puttied? As with any new piece of work on a boat, it is best to pre-finish the trim before installation. If the trim is bunged, the final coat will need to be applied after installation. For exterior trim it is best to use a non-hardening bedding compound on installation. All too often, glue or some sort of moisture cured rubber is used for bedding which makes for not only a long clean-up process but an impossible job of removing the trim for refinishing.
Finally, when brightwork is adjacent to paintwork, I suggest doing all the varnish first and cut the paint work into the varnish as it's easier to wipe paint from varnish than vice versa. I have other thoughts on the matter, but this is enough for now.
Friday, April 23, 2010
Wood Butchers Are In Recovery
Carpentry projects often seem to be a recovery process. Unfortunately, things often spin out of control once a mistake is made. I don't care who you are, we all make mistakes. More than once I have said to myself: "I didn't make the people and put them on the world". With this in mind, never let fear enter the thought process. It is ok to make mistakes. The longer this art of boatbuilding is practiced the more adept we become. And the better the preparation, the less chance for error.
Preparation takes many forms. The job site must be accessible, well lit, and ideally have a power source. In southern climes, it must be protected from the midday sun; and, likewise up north, the site must be reasonably heated (usually in the dead of winter this translates as not freezing). The required tools must be close at hand and a work area must be established for laying out. This can be a table made up of saw horses and plywood or, a bona fide work bench with a carpenters vice. Another consideration is ease of getting aboard the boat. In a shop this means having a stairway built with a platform at the top; in a boatyard, this usually means a stout ladder tied at the top to the boat.
Once these prerequisites are met, it is time to go to work. Whatever it is we plan to accomplish has already been developed in our mind . We can see the end result. If you can't see it, you are not ready to start it! For a carpentry project I prefer to sketch what it is I am about to build. This establishes dimensions and allows me to see the joints I am about to fit. Trust me, I am no illustrator! But I can draw lines and I can write measurements to these lines. I have drawn on scraps of wood, bench tops, sandpaper, and boxes; however, I prefer making my diagrams in a hardcover notebook. And these notebooks I save. These drawings for me are just as important as the finished product is for the customer.
Once I am satisfied with my sketch (call it what you will, it is the design), I can go to the next step of patternmaking. A pattern will save time and material, period! And, major flaws in the design will come immediately to your attention. For something built in plywood, the pattern for the particular piece (be it a bunk flat, seat back, or top to a box) is made up of five 2" strips of 1/4" ply or door skin glued and clamped at the corners. The fifth piece is glued on a diagonal to keep the assembly from racking. If one edge is bevelled, the angle is written on the pattern, transferred to the finish stock and either cut or hand planed.
Now that a pattern is made and everything looks like a go, its time to cut wood. But, be sure to draw accurate lines on the finish stock. This little detail is often overlooked. Saws are an essential tool for the woodworker and these include various handsaws, table saw, sabre saw (at EBW we called these jiggle saws), chop saw, sawsall, bandsaw, Skill saw, and radial arm saw. I also like my electric chain saw. This is just my collection - you may want to add to this list.
And with this collection goes the assortment of saw blades including the oft overlooked set of dado blades used on either the table saw or radial arm saw. For certain projects a router can be used effectively though this is one of my least favorite power tool in terms of the noise and dust it produces. More often than not, the same result can be accomplished with hand tools. Once the lines are drawn, determine whether to leave the line or split the line when cutting.
Once wood has been cut, joints are now fitted. Use common sense in the design of joints: if it looks right, it probably is. Joints are strongest if they a) fit perfectly, b)glued according to manufacturer's guidelines, c)mechanically fastened. My preference for joints are scarf, shiplap, and miter. When everything fits, assembly can begin. Be sure to have enough clamps, and if glueing, enough time is allowed for assembly and the temperature to cure the glue is reasonable.
At this stage, one never seems to have enough hands. Glueing up can challenge the most experienced: it all depends on the complexity of the project. Try to anticipate any problems befoe they arise. Using clamps can be awkward - sometimes they won't work for the job at hand. Be clever with your alternatives: a piece of line as a spanish windlass, blocks and hand cut shallow wedges, props and shores to the floor, ceiling, wall, or some other immoveable object, weights (save old car batteries!) , and so on. This is the tipping point of your project. It should be a cake walk from here.
Whatever we are building can now be installed. Consider at this point to finish (paint or varnish) before installation. I have covered alot here; best take a break! We still need to discuss the role of trim in this project.
Preparation takes many forms. The job site must be accessible, well lit, and ideally have a power source. In southern climes, it must be protected from the midday sun; and, likewise up north, the site must be reasonably heated (usually in the dead of winter this translates as not freezing). The required tools must be close at hand and a work area must be established for laying out. This can be a table made up of saw horses and plywood or, a bona fide work bench with a carpenters vice. Another consideration is ease of getting aboard the boat. In a shop this means having a stairway built with a platform at the top; in a boatyard, this usually means a stout ladder tied at the top to the boat.
Once these prerequisites are met, it is time to go to work. Whatever it is we plan to accomplish has already been developed in our mind . We can see the end result. If you can't see it, you are not ready to start it! For a carpentry project I prefer to sketch what it is I am about to build. This establishes dimensions and allows me to see the joints I am about to fit. Trust me, I am no illustrator! But I can draw lines and I can write measurements to these lines. I have drawn on scraps of wood, bench tops, sandpaper, and boxes; however, I prefer making my diagrams in a hardcover notebook. And these notebooks I save. These drawings for me are just as important as the finished product is for the customer.
Once I am satisfied with my sketch (call it what you will, it is the design), I can go to the next step of patternmaking. A pattern will save time and material, period! And, major flaws in the design will come immediately to your attention. For something built in plywood, the pattern for the particular piece (be it a bunk flat, seat back, or top to a box) is made up of five 2" strips of 1/4" ply or door skin glued and clamped at the corners. The fifth piece is glued on a diagonal to keep the assembly from racking. If one edge is bevelled, the angle is written on the pattern, transferred to the finish stock and either cut or hand planed.
Now that a pattern is made and everything looks like a go, its time to cut wood. But, be sure to draw accurate lines on the finish stock. This little detail is often overlooked. Saws are an essential tool for the woodworker and these include various handsaws, table saw, sabre saw (at EBW we called these jiggle saws), chop saw, sawsall, bandsaw, Skill saw, and radial arm saw. I also like my electric chain saw. This is just my collection - you may want to add to this list.
And with this collection goes the assortment of saw blades including the oft overlooked set of dado blades used on either the table saw or radial arm saw. For certain projects a router can be used effectively though this is one of my least favorite power tool in terms of the noise and dust it produces. More often than not, the same result can be accomplished with hand tools. Once the lines are drawn, determine whether to leave the line or split the line when cutting.
Once wood has been cut, joints are now fitted. Use common sense in the design of joints: if it looks right, it probably is. Joints are strongest if they a) fit perfectly, b)glued according to manufacturer's guidelines, c)mechanically fastened. My preference for joints are scarf, shiplap, and miter. When everything fits, assembly can begin. Be sure to have enough clamps, and if glueing, enough time is allowed for assembly and the temperature to cure the glue is reasonable.
At this stage, one never seems to have enough hands. Glueing up can challenge the most experienced: it all depends on the complexity of the project. Try to anticipate any problems befoe they arise. Using clamps can be awkward - sometimes they won't work for the job at hand. Be clever with your alternatives: a piece of line as a spanish windlass, blocks and hand cut shallow wedges, props and shores to the floor, ceiling, wall, or some other immoveable object, weights (save old car batteries!) , and so on. This is the tipping point of your project. It should be a cake walk from here.
Whatever we are building can now be installed. Consider at this point to finish (paint or varnish) before installation. I have covered alot here; best take a break! We still need to discuss the role of trim in this project.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Organization is a Process
Efficient work routines evolve from previous mistakes. This time of year, when demand is the heaviest, the work is spread out among boatyards in many different locations, sometimes in different states.
Professionals in the boat business are often compulsive people and yes, obsessively so. Don't get me started about misplacing a hammer, an instruction sheet, or a top to a container. It can ruin an otherwise productive week! That said, it can be very challenging to multi-task on different projects. But it can be done and in multiple locations.
Much of the groundwork for a productive day takes place in the wee hours of the morning planning, fidgetting, and fretting about the coming day. Often the best ideas, solutions, and decisions takes place tossing and turning during the night. To successfully bring about an end result on a boat project first requires a clear vision of that result. The finished product must be visualized before it can be brought to reality. In reality, there are no architect drawings to work off of unless, of course, you happen to be the architect. Builder's sketches will have to suffice. Often golfers are said to visualize a shot before they swing the club. It is very true for boat projects.
Because of this visualization process, it is easy think of nothing else - the brain has put this task in the front of the queue. But it's a trap! Other jobs on different boats can be figured out and actually worked on in the same day. Let's face it: noone I know has survived in this business with just one happy customer - ideally, we want them all to be happy. Hence, the need for multi-tasking.
I like to group boat projects into catagories or skills. If possible, I prefer tackling different jobs in the same catagory on the same day. My tools will be easier to assemble, and the materials will have more in common. The skills in boatbuilding are mechanical, carpentry, painting and glassing. I leave electronics to the nerds. And there are some jobs I won't go near simply because there are others much better qualified; ie, sail and canvas makers, metal fabricators and welders, diesel and outboard mechanics, etc. These journeymen have paid their dues from years of being on the job and are worth every penny of what they charge.
So if I have an assortment of boats requiring paint work, I plan accordingly. I load up the truck with staging horses and planks, finish brushes and throw away brushes, sandpaper of assorted grits, thinner, paint and varnish, tack rags and towels, surgical gloves, boiled linseed, paint pots and a couple of small boxes, and stirring sticks. What have I forgotten? Extension cords, adaptors for Hubbell fittings, power sander, and dust masks. And to any job I always bring warm clothes and a hat, food, and water. And don't ever leave home without your scraper, file, and chisel.
Carpentry jobs require more intense planning as each job is a process. Having completed the visualization process, the next step is preparing the job site. More on that later.
Professionals in the boat business are often compulsive people and yes, obsessively so. Don't get me started about misplacing a hammer, an instruction sheet, or a top to a container. It can ruin an otherwise productive week! That said, it can be very challenging to multi-task on different projects. But it can be done and in multiple locations.
Much of the groundwork for a productive day takes place in the wee hours of the morning planning, fidgetting, and fretting about the coming day. Often the best ideas, solutions, and decisions takes place tossing and turning during the night. To successfully bring about an end result on a boat project first requires a clear vision of that result. The finished product must be visualized before it can be brought to reality. In reality, there are no architect drawings to work off of unless, of course, you happen to be the architect. Builder's sketches will have to suffice. Often golfers are said to visualize a shot before they swing the club. It is very true for boat projects.
Because of this visualization process, it is easy think of nothing else - the brain has put this task in the front of the queue. But it's a trap! Other jobs on different boats can be figured out and actually worked on in the same day. Let's face it: noone I know has survived in this business with just one happy customer - ideally, we want them all to be happy. Hence, the need for multi-tasking.
I like to group boat projects into catagories or skills. If possible, I prefer tackling different jobs in the same catagory on the same day. My tools will be easier to assemble, and the materials will have more in common. The skills in boatbuilding are mechanical, carpentry, painting and glassing. I leave electronics to the nerds. And there are some jobs I won't go near simply because there are others much better qualified; ie, sail and canvas makers, metal fabricators and welders, diesel and outboard mechanics, etc. These journeymen have paid their dues from years of being on the job and are worth every penny of what they charge.
So if I have an assortment of boats requiring paint work, I plan accordingly. I load up the truck with staging horses and planks, finish brushes and throw away brushes, sandpaper of assorted grits, thinner, paint and varnish, tack rags and towels, surgical gloves, boiled linseed, paint pots and a couple of small boxes, and stirring sticks. What have I forgotten? Extension cords, adaptors for Hubbell fittings, power sander, and dust masks. And to any job I always bring warm clothes and a hat, food, and water. And don't ever leave home without your scraper, file, and chisel.
Carpentry jobs require more intense planning as each job is a process. Having completed the visualization process, the next step is preparing the job site. More on that later.
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Welcome to the latest edition of the Classic Yacht Restorations' website. We hope you like the obvious improvements and the new features such as this blog page. In the coming months, I intend to publish features on this blog page for all boatowners to enjoy. Check back every so often to see what's new!
As the weather grows warmer, the pace quickens around the boatyards, reaching a near frantic crescendo in the month of May. This is the season, short as it may be, to use our boats and, just as importantly, work through the various projects from our action plan for improvements and repairs on our boats. And here in southern New England, we are blessed with reasonably decent weather from April through October. However, the water is still damn cold this time of year so I reserve the spring months for projects, not sailing.
Yesterday, April 20, 2010, was a momentous occasion. Northern Light was splashed for the first time under her new ownership. The 32' Danish sloop built in 1961 was trucked down from Vermont a few weeks back and almost immediately, work commenced to get her launched post haste. A woodenboat complains bitterly when out of her element; she gets payback on launching day and there is only so much good underwater seam compound accomplishes! When launching day finally arrives, it pays to have more than one large capacity pump available, particularly if she is not allowed to sit in the slings for any period of time. She will drown her engine if allowed - that's payback! It is always amusing to observe the owner's "look of concern" as water pours in from below. But a day later, things usually quiet down and, one by one, the pumps can be removed.
She now sits in her slip alive again to the movement of a protected cove. No more ladders to negotiate, just other boats and the waterfront. Granted stationary machines are a hike and a half away but, often, hand tools and portable power tools serve just as well. The major hurdle of launch day is behind us and the boat looks "right" sitting in her element. Now the major projects will begin including building a new galley, installing a rebuilt head, and plumbing a new domestic water system, to name a few. Pictures of the progress will follow soon.
As the weather grows warmer, the pace quickens around the boatyards, reaching a near frantic crescendo in the month of May. This is the season, short as it may be, to use our boats and, just as importantly, work through the various projects from our action plan for improvements and repairs on our boats. And here in southern New England, we are blessed with reasonably decent weather from April through October. However, the water is still damn cold this time of year so I reserve the spring months for projects, not sailing.
Yesterday, April 20, 2010, was a momentous occasion. Northern Light was splashed for the first time under her new ownership. The 32' Danish sloop built in 1961 was trucked down from Vermont a few weeks back and almost immediately, work commenced to get her launched post haste. A woodenboat complains bitterly when out of her element; she gets payback on launching day and there is only so much good underwater seam compound accomplishes! When launching day finally arrives, it pays to have more than one large capacity pump available, particularly if she is not allowed to sit in the slings for any period of time. She will drown her engine if allowed - that's payback! It is always amusing to observe the owner's "look of concern" as water pours in from below. But a day later, things usually quiet down and, one by one, the pumps can be removed.
She now sits in her slip alive again to the movement of a protected cove. No more ladders to negotiate, just other boats and the waterfront. Granted stationary machines are a hike and a half away but, often, hand tools and portable power tools serve just as well. The major hurdle of launch day is behind us and the boat looks "right" sitting in her element. Now the major projects will begin including building a new galley, installing a rebuilt head, and plumbing a new domestic water system, to name a few. Pictures of the progress will follow soon.
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